Power steering pump removal

[Spookytooth]

I followed the excellent guide posted on this forum to remove the pump from my 2003 Cooper earlier today. However, the procedure on my car differed on one or two important points from the previous post, so while it’s still fresh in my mind I thought I’d post my experience.

The first thing to say is that this isn’t a job to be afraid of as it’s very straightforward and will save you a fortune. My Mini dealer quoted me £650 for the job with no guarantee of a goodwill donation from BMW. DIY, I expect to shell out less than £200 and I’ll get a two year guarantee on the pump (assuming the company stays in business anyway).

Before putting the car up on axle stands draw off as much fluid from the power steering reservoir as you can. This step is not essential, but reduces mess. I used a plastic syringe.

I couldn’t get my trolley jack under the car because it’s so low to the ground. Putting a couple of bricks in front of the wheels and driving up on to them solved that. Once the car is on stands, locate the pump. It’s very easy to spot in the centre of the car, mounted to the front of the crossmember, behind the engine. The pump is mounted across the car. There’s a picture of one here:

http://ecutesting.com/mini_power_ste...ump_fault.html

The plastic end cap with the spout points to the left of the car
Contrary to a previous guide, on my UK model there was no external cooling fan to remove.

Remove the low pressure hose. This is rubber, sheathed in metallic heat shielding. It attaches to the spout on the plastic end cap of the pump. It’s held in place by a crimp clamp which you have to prise off with a screwdriver. These clamps aren’t reusable so replace it with a jubilee clip when you rebuild. You’ll get a shower of fluid as the hose comes off. Disconnecting the lower attachment of the hose, not the upper attachment to the reservoir, gives you much more movement when the pump is unbolted, making it a lot easier to get out.

The high pressure connection looks like a metal brake pipe and is secured with a single 13mm bolt. BMW have thoughtfully placed a small slot between the connector and the pump so you can prise the two apart. Once you’ve got it started, it should pull away fairly easily. I then tied this pipe up out of the way by lowering a piece of string (tied to a weight) from above.
There are two electrical connectors. Only the smaller one nearest the front of the car can be removed at this point. Using a small screwdriver, lift up the tab that retains it and pull it away.

Undo the 13mm nut directly under the pump. Two bolts also need to be removed. The heads of these bolts face toward the rear of the car and they can only be removed by working from the rear of the crossmember. It’s just possible to see them if you crane your neck and look over the top of the crossmember from behind it, but it’s easier to work by feel. You’ll need an extension on your socket. Be careful not to drop the bolts onto the crossmember once they’re clear.

Now the tricky part. At first it appears that you can’t lift the pump up far enough to get the threaded spike (that had the first nut on it) through the crossmember. However, by rotating the pump about its axis toward the front of the car you will be able to manoeuvre it out, and it’ll hang from the car by the wires.

Now you will see that the wires are held to the body of the pump by special fasteners that push into a bracket on the pump and then have cable tie-like wraparounds to hold the wires. I couldn’t preserve these though you might be able to. I’ll rebuild with cable ties.

Lift the tab and pull away the large electrical connector and you have a pump in your hands. The pump mounts to a bracket that you don’t want to send away. Undo the four 10mm nuts to remove the first section, then two T30 Torx to get the second section off. When rebuilding remember that this second part will go on two ways. There is a number stamped into the metal on the side that faces outwards.

After rebuilding, (and I’m now quoting advice given by others as I haven’t done this yet) fill the reservoir, start the engine and, with the car still off the ground or with the wheels resting on magazines, move the steering from lock to lock several times, check the level and top up. Do this a couple more times to be on the safe side.