The best motor oil for Rover Mini Cooper '91?

[Andrew1967]

Originally Posted by DaveShreeve

£9.00 a litre isn't a bad price but it depends what your expecting it to do. Mine usually runs about £12.50 a litre but is quite happy to protect a 2.5 litre, 300bhp, turbo'd engine for a full 12 months. Manufacturer recomendation and oil analysis proved.

Just as a matter of interest I've been looking at a '67 copy of AKD4935. The general recommendation is for 10w30 for any tempratures above -18C (0F). Approval is also given to 20w50 if the temprature dosen't go below -12C. No mention of changing grades for higher tempratures! If it's really cold, below -18C you can use 5w50.

Looking at the temps of the last fortnight 20w50 has been operating outside its recommendation in several locations.

If my car had 300bhp then I'd be happy to pay £12.50 a litre Dave. Thing is it's only a 90bhp diesel Even the dealer considers the oil to be a rip off !

Good point on the recent temperatures though.

[taffy1967]

Well mine had been hibernating through all the rain, snow and freezing temperatures we've been experiencing: -



Plus it's been nowhere near any grit/salt covered roads either. but on checking the dipstick, the good old Duckhams Q Classic still looks like honey.

[Andrew1967]

So you're using yellow Duckhams now Taffy ..........

[taffy1967]

Originally Posted by Andrew1967

So you're using yellow Duckhams now Taffy ..........

[Mini Cord]

Ok, here's the thing with Motor oils.

Long story short, before oil used to have Zink additives (ZDDP). This particular additive has been removed from oils because it damages the catalytic converters. Without the ZDDP, it has been found that flat tappered cams follwowers (Like the ones in Minis) will fail prematurely.

Anyone who wants to read the whole story:
http://www.minimania.com/ArticleV.cfm?DisplayID=1922

Car Syntetic oils are too thin and are not designed to work with the shear forces developed in a gearbox. They are also very detergent, so when used in an old engine (by old I mean with high mileage), they will remove all the carbon deposit inside the engine, which most likely is helping seal the engine.

Also, using syntetic is a waste of money in a Mini, even if the lubricating properties last longer, the oil still gets dirty pretty quick with carbon deposits, and due to the transmission, it becomes acidic even faster and gets full of microscopic metal shavings. So, you'll have to change it in the same intervals.

Change your oil regularly, I do it at maximum 3000 KM (1800 Miles) and you'll extend the life of your engine. Cleaner oil = better lubrication = less wear.

Don't be cheap on the oil, you get what you pay for!

Castrol Classic has ZDDP in it and it's a very good oil.

If you don't want Castrol Classic, look for a an API SL oil or with a high level of ZDDP. Here in Canada my only option is to use a Castrol Grand Prix 4 stroke for bikes.

Hope this helps.

Miguel

[taffy1967]

Originally Posted by Andrew1967

So you're using yellow Duckhams now Taffy ..........

I'd also forgotten that Duckhams Q Classic stopped getting the green dye added (I was the one who rang to enquire and got told it was for health & safety reasons. More like profit reasons I'd say?).

[taffy1967]

Originally Posted by Mini Cord

Ok, here's the thing with Motor oils.

Long story short, before oil used to have Zink additives (ZDDP). This particular additive has been removed from oils because it damages the catalytic converters. Without the ZDDP, it has been found that flat tappered cams follwowers (Like the ones in Minis) will fail prematurely.

Anyone who wants to read the whole story:
http://www.minimania.com/ArticleV.cfm?DisplayID=1922

Car Syntetic oils are too thin and are not designed to work with the shear forces developed in a gearbox. They are also very detergent, so when used in an old engine (by old I mean with high mileage), they will remove all the carbon deposit inside the engine, which most likely is helping seal the engine.

Also, using syntetic is a waste of money in a Mini, even if the lubricating properties last longer, the oil still gets dirty pretty quick with carbon deposits, and due to the transmission, it becomes acidic even faster and gets full of microscopic metal shavings. So, you'll have to change it in the same intervals.

Change your oil regularly, I do it at maximum 3000 KM (1800 Miles) and you'll extend the life of your engine. Cleaner oil = better lubrication = less wear.

Don't be cheap on the oil, you get what you pay for!

Castrol Classic has ZDDP in it and it's a very good oil.

If you don't want Castrol Classic, look for a an API SL oil or with a high level of ZDDP. Here in Canada my only option is to use a Castrol Grand Prix 4 stroke for bikes.

Hope this helps.

Miguel

Thanks Miguel, an interesting article.